Margaret River is an upmarket, hippie haven for those who live with a surfboard stuck to the soles of their feet. Hugged by the Indian and Southern oceans, it is also one of the world’s most isolated wine regions. It is well-known for its premium Cab Sav and Chardy, with iconic wineries including Vasse Felix and Leeuwin Estate.
The region has a maritime micro-climate and ideal soil conditions which makes it well-suited to a minimal intervention approach and as such, the area is seeing an exciting wave of lo-fi wineries that, in true Aussie style, are just having fun with it! Here’s the roundup of everything I drank in Margs!
Si Vintners, Rosa Glen
Back in 2006, Sarah Morris and Iwo Jakimowicz decided to make their first bottle of wine in a friend’s shed. In and amongst those nuts and bolts, something must have gone right because the pair are now the proud owners of a perfectly curated winery, Si Vintners.
Unlike a typical cellar door, this place has a noisy buzz to it; you’ll want to bring a picnic and set up camp for the day. Their natural wine tasting is hard to beat. The “Sophie” is a showstopper blush pink Pinot Noir that tastes as good as it looks. But it was “The Sauce” Grenache that was too bright and juicy for us to leave behind. The team here are a delight and I’d go out of my way to pay them a second visit.
Amato Vino, Witchcliffe
The Witch and Windmill is a quirky, heritage-listed building, featuring a spiral staircase and a windmill - as if it’s been pulled straight from a Lord of the Rings set. The space houses various small businesses, including an espresso bar, a restaurant and a bookstore. It’s perhaps not the first place you’d look to find a winery but Amato Vino feels right at home here, making use of the cosy patio and leafy garden.
Amato offers a spectrum of styles, from skinsy ferments to complex blends. It’s the kind of tasting that keeps you on your toes without losing sight of tradition. Whether you want to sip your wine with a new book or line the stomach with a bite to eat, you’re in good hands with Amato and its neighbours.
Dormilona, Margaret River
Dormilona is the talk of the town in Margs, and rightly so. Meaning “lazy bones” in Spanish, Dormilona’s approach to wine is like nurturing a newborn; it’s all about doing things small and slow. Their light, mineral wines are told through the story of a skeleton which features across their funky branding (it took every ounce of my being not to slip one of their wine glasses up my sleeve). This tiny cellar door is the perfect home for their intimate, delicate tasting. There’s no excuse to walk away without a bottle or five.
Mr Barval, Redgate
It would be amiss to visit Margaret River and not sample some of its more classic varieties. Mr Barval uses traditional, old-world techniques to produce wines packed with personality. The cellar door is a vast space overlooking the river where you can enjoy a rather generous tasting. Their Mistral is a unique blend of Viognier and Marsanne and became a notable favourite of mine. Mr Barval has real character; its laid-back, almost slapdash feel is both endearing and reassuring. They know what they’re doing and they don’t need to shout about it.
South By South West, Witchcliffe
South By South West brings the land to the forefront of their wine, celebrating and showcasing the terroir of the south-west - hence the name. This women-led winery sources grapes from the local area to produce small batches that exemplify the pioneering styles that the region has to offer.
The cellar door is quiet and secluded, an opportunity for a wine-fueled restbite. Their exciting range makes these bottles a great buy for any occasion; perfect for a summery dinner party or to jazz up a family bbq. Think juicy, crisp and, as South By South West put it themselves, “smashable!”